![]() ![]() Using this fly cutter on both ends of the inserted aluminum rod, it was milled down to be even with both inter and outer head surfaces.Īfter the both surfaces were milled with the fly cutter, the ¼” diameter hole was drilled to accept a spark plug tap. This fly cutting tool was chucked to a drill motor and the end of drill rod was placed into the ¼” diameter hole in the aluminum rod. I sharpened the square steel tooling to cut in a clockwise rotation and at right angle to the drill rod. I made the fly cutter by brazing a piece of square steel tooling length wise to a 7” length of ¼’ drill rod. ![]() To remove the excess ends of the aluminum rod a fly cutter was needed. Both ends of the screwed in rod were cut. The turned aluminum rod was screwed into the tapped hole until very tight galling the threads (at that time I didn't have any "Lock Tite"). The drilled spark plug hole was tapped with the ½” NPT tap from the cylinder side. The damaged spark plug hole was drilled for a ½” NPT tap. ![]() I took a ½” NPT pipe die and threaded one end of the turned aluminum rod. Then, I drilled a ¼” diameter through the center of the turned aluminum rod. Next, on a lathe, I turned a piece of ¾” diameter aluminum rod to the same size as ½” pipe. I removed the damaged head from the engine. Needless to say, I stripped a spark plug hole in one of the heads. I had a flat head Ford V8 with aluminum heads. Here is a head repair technique I learned from an old race car mechanic many years ago before the days of Heli Coils.
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